Sunday, August 20, 2006

Genies Cafe Fulfills Every Wish

So here we are at entry number two of what we hope will be a continuing journal of reviews. But, after our reviewers' meal today, it could very well be the last. Why even try to best this spot?

Genies Cafe is near perfect. I stopped here as part of my Sunday morning ride and met my beautiful co-reviewer to conduct our inspection. Being Sunday the waiting list was lengthy and to be expected. Though many in the restaurant industry would say weekend's are not the time to truly taste how a restaurant can perform, I believe our testing should take place during the peaks. If you can deliver excellent food and service while in the midst of a jail-break blitz, then you are held in this reviewer's highest esteem.

First impressions were nice. Seemed the interior was a touch of camp mixed with mid-century minimalist. Mind you, this theme was not over the top, so the lack of pretension was appreciated. There was a help-yourself coffee station set up serving Portland's own Stumptown Coffee. Not sure if Duane is still roasting the coffee 30 or so blocks away, but the flavor that drained from the airpots was superior.

Yes, the wait was long, but it was exacerbated by my co-reviewer. Timeliness isn't one of her best qualities. This resulted in needing to turn down our table when it was first available. I can only hope the hungry throngs waiting appreciated the gesture.

While being sat, the greatest first impression was the friendliness of the hostess and our server. Smiles all around, full of smart recommendations and extremely knowledgeable about the food served. For instance, on the menu they don't tout the organic, cage-free eggs used, nor the meats from Portland's own Sam The Butcher, Viande Meats.

Now for the food (that got served no more than 15 minutes after being ordered). I had a scramble of chorizo, cheese, scallions and house-made salsa and a side of their Potatoes O'brien. These diced gems are griddled with onion and other spices to create something straight out of a dream. The piping hot scramble's eggs were light and fluffy, and barely hid the ample chunks of spicy sausage. The salsa added a cool and spicy topping as delicious complement - no Tapatio or Tabasco needed here.

My partner went with one of the four versions of Eggs Benedict offered. The hollandaise was sublime -simultaneously rich and light (editor's note: as a food reviewer I am now officially licensed to use words like "sublime". Read further and you'll see I use "superlative" without even batting an eye), it clinged to each hulking mound. The kitchen accidentally gave her the wrong potatoes and the plate was whisked away with grace (and without a touch of attitude) and returned in the blink of an eye with the right stuff.

Among the other offerings that make this place superlative is a full bar to give you a bit of the hair of the dog. This includes their own version of a redeye called the Montana Breakfast (High Life and tomato juice). For those looking for more homespun choices can go for granola with Nancy's yogurt or good ol' Bob's Red Mill Oatmeal served up with a diverse choice of toppings.

My only struggle in reviewing Genies is how to classify it. Organic and local ingredients. Strong, bold coffee. Low pretension environment. Genies exists somewhere in between the gaps of so many other slabtown offerings. This is one place this reviewer cannot wait to return to. From the long lines, and many other online glowing reviews, I'll happily join the loyal ranks.

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Thanks for the review. We live in Salem, but we are always looking for some place new to try - even if it is in Portland. Keep up the good work and we will mention your blog when we try Genies.

Have a good day!

Anonymous said...

After reading your gushing review of Genie's Cafe, I dragged my maudlin ass out of the apartment for a midday lunch. Honestly, you had me at the first "superlative." Upon arrival, I was sure that the cheery atmosphere you regaled would melt away my blues like a butter chip in a pool of warm syrup. And it did, as the hearthy yet hip cafe took me in. The service and the food were top-shelf. I grew a calm little Buddhist smile--that is, until these two PDA-beaming capitalist lemmings sat at the table next to me and yapped for an hour an a half incessantly about direct marketing and trade show "logistics." It was all I could do to keep my delicious grass-fed beef burger from expelling.